Chinese in America change in food traditions Nikki Olagbegi

Chinese people have many traditions when it comes to preparing and making food. There is a long history in China for preparing dishes for specific events like longevity noodles for birthdays and health remedies like seafood noodles (Zhang, 2016). Chinese people have specific traditions like shared dining which is very different from Western ways of dining and tend to share food out of the same plate( Junru, 2011). The Chinese believe in having a balanced diet and therefore they prepare traditional foods that are high in fiber and low in saturated fats (Na, 2016). This includes carbohydrate staples such as rice, noodles, or steamed buns, as well as stir-fries and soups. Then usually at the end of a meal hot tea, fresh fruit, and nuts are served instead of sweets (Lv, 2004).

As China has become more industrialized there has been more international communication with Western countries like the U.S. which resulted in Chinese people being introduced to many Western food and food practices. Though China has Western food available, many people living in China still primarily choose to keep their traditional food and practices. As Chinese people immigrate into the U.S., many begin to change their food eating habits and practices. As they get more accustomed to American culture they begin to include more Western traditions into their culture. Eventually many begin to eat and make less of traditional Chinese food and eat more American food, though many older Chinese immigrants still try to maintain their traditional diets. Many Chinese immigrants in America change their food culture as a result of a change in the environment and resources. This change is especially reflected in first-generation and the second generation Chinese immigrants as they tend to eat more American food.

Several studies show the Chinese immigrants change their dietary habits. In a study by researchers at Stanford, they found that the dietary habits of North American Chinese are more similar to those of North American whites than to those of Chinese in China(Lee, 1994). In this study, it revealed that a change in the environment plays a huge role in dietary habits. In another study, it was found that “Chinese people who resided in the United States for a longer period of time shared a greater increase in their consumption frequencies of vegetables, fats/sweets, and sweet beverages” (Lv, 2004). Further Chinese people with better English proficiency had a greater increase in their consumption frequency of grains, fruits, meat/meat alternatives, and fats/sweets(Lv, 2004). This pattern of eating more fats/sweets, fruits, and grains is especially reflected at breakfast time. In an interview with Chinese immigrants, the researchers() found that many of the immigrant families ate Western breakfast, such as cereal, bread, bagels, and waffles, with milk or orange juice. Though some families still incorporate traditional Chinese breakfast foods, such as stewed spiced eggs, steamed buns, or porridge (Sun, 1999). A typical Chinese breakfast includes stuffed or plain steamed buns with a bowl of porridge (congee), a dish of pickled vegetables, wonton hot soup noodle, rice and stir-fried dishes(Junru, 2011). For lunch and dinner, dietary habits vary a lot more between families. Many would choose to eat out at an American restaurant or buy premade food to be made for lunch or dinner. In fact, “about a third of Chinese adult immigrants choose to eat out for lunch or dinner either eating Western food like salad, sandwiches, soup, and fast food or Asian restaurants” according to a survey(Sun, 1999). For children(first generation), a change in eating habits begins as they are exposed to Western culture outside of the house. Many children begin to like Western food and snacks after enrollment in American daycare, kindergarten, or school. Children would typically eat Western food provided by schools or would bring Western food such as sandwiches or mini-pizza. In an interview, one mother said, “After they went to . . . they started to like American food . . . As I said, they like to eat sandwiches, pizza, and this kind of food”(Sun, 1999). Based on the foods mentioned, Chinese adults and children change their dietary pattern as a result of immigrating to the U.S. 

Specific foods that have the highest change as a result of Chinese immigrants new dietary habits include foods with fats and sodiums. A survey found that red meats and dairy products accounted for two-thirds of the saturated fat in the North American Chinese diet, while for the people living in China, pork was the main source of saturated fats (Lee, 1994). In daily life, the Chinese usually would have a balanced meal and do not consume excessive amounts of meat in each meal (Junru, 2011). Researchers at Stanford found that there was high consumption of beef for Chinese in the United States compared to that of Chinese in China (Lee, 1994). Many American foods have milk or cheese, such as mac and cheese, ice cream, nachos, so it is very common for people living in America to consume dairy. In a study focused on dairy consumption, they found that Chinese in China seldom consumed dairy products and similar findings of low intake of dairy products among elderly Chinese had also been reported (Xu, 2010). Though many people from China, especially elderly Chinese people, are not used to eating dairy products as a part of their main diet, many Chinese immigrants try to incorporate it in some way. 

Another dietary pattern that changed for Chinese immigrants in America is that they consume Chinese food less often. In a survey, it was found that after immigration, Chinese Americans increased consumption frequency of all seven food groups (grains, vegetables, fruits, meat/meat alternatives, dairy products, fats/sweets, and beverages) of Western foods while consumption frequency of traditional Chinese foods decreased(Lv, 2004). Among Chinese immigrants, younger children were especially resistant to consuming Chinese food. “In a survey conducted by Sun and other researchers they found that “Ninety percent of the families in the sample had at least 1 child who was picky about vegetables, especially Chinese vegetables, and sometimes other food like Chinese noodles, dumplings, or steamed pork with anchovy” (Sun, 1999). When it comes to trying different food options, some of the children were willing to consider only new Western food and would not try different Chinese items. One mother stated, “It is easy for my kids to accept new Western dishes, but not easy for them to accept new Chinese dishes”(Lee, 1994). Though eventually, the children begin to accept some Chinese foods, many still prefer more American foods as some mothers from the study reported that their children were more flexible at older ages and started to like Chinese food.

There are many reasons why Chinese people change their dietary habits. These changes mainly have to do with a change in an environment and/or associating new foods with their traditional foods. In an interview asking if their eating habits changed since immigrating to the United States, the researchers found that over half (56.9%) reported yes. The main explanations provided for why this change occurred were not having time to prepare Chinese traditional foods (32.6%) and having limited access to traditional Chinese food (30.8%) (Lv, 2004). Since some traditional Chinese food is not readily available at nearby stores and supermarkets, many Chinese people have to choose alternative foods. In fact, some Chinese people noted when shopping at supermarkets most adults found limited vegetable variety in the US and therefore this limitation resulted in dropping certain Chinese dishes (Sun, 1999). Since it is hard to find Chinese ingredients in many of the stores and to find some of these dishes would take a long time, the frequency of grocery shopping significantly decreased from daily or several times per week to weekly after immigration. To find some of the ingredients for their traditional dishes, Chinese immigrants often had a hard time and therefore were forced to change eating habits.

Another reason could be that some dishes are similar to Chinese foods and therefore are adapted in immigrant diets. For example, while many immigrant adults tend to not eat Western food items, foods similar to Chinese food are more accepted. In an interview, one of the immigrant fathers said, “Everybody likes to eat pasta. It is similar to Chinese noodles. We always remember to cook this dish” (Sun, 1999). Therefore, it is easy to make dishes like these since there is not too big of a difference in making these dishes, so American foods similar to Chinese foods are easily adapted to their diet.

Another reason why many Chinese immigrants change their dietary habits could be because of financial reasons. Researchers Pan, Dixon, Himburg, & Huffman found that “Chinese students, after having immigrated to the United States, changed their dietary choices to consume more American-style fast food such as pizza, hamburgers, sandwiches, french fries, carbonated beverages, and dairy products. This change was attributed to the cheaper price of U.S. food compared to pricier Chinese food(Lv, 2004).” This shows that the environment that Chinese immigrants are in makes a difference as the same foods they would eat in China are more expensive, and if the higher prices are concerning to them, they would look for cheaper options.

Interest in experimental cooking also makes an impact on the change in dietary habits. There is evidence that learning of new healthy American food makes an impact on Chinese immigrant food choices. In a study, it was found that immigrant mothers were willing to change what was served at family dinners (Sun, 1999). Many of the mothers stated that they get tired of serving the same food, such as rice. Since rice is a staple food in many Chinese households, it is eaten very often and becomes monotonous and therefore Chinese people try to explore making new foods(Junru, 2011). This was different for immigrant fathers as they preferred not to change what they serve at family dinners. In an interview, a father explained his reasoning for not changing his diet, “I am used to our current diet. It is good. I don’t want to try new food items, because I am afraid they don’t taste good or I am not used to eating them”(Sun, 1999). Overall, in this case, it is primarily immigrant mothers who would be willing to change their dietary preferences because they want to experiment with other foods. 

Though Chinese people immigrate to the US and begin to eat more Western food, there are certain foods and food habits that are maintained from their Chinese culture. Chinese immigrant parents typically have more preferences for Chinese food while their children tend to prefer Western food items. In an interview conducted by researchers at Pennsylvania State, they found that many parents did not like most Western dishes such as hot dogs and mac and cheese (Lv, 2004). In addition to that, another interview found that immigrant parents and their children, it was found that many of the children tended to change their eating habits and eats foods such as barbecue chicken and chicken nuggets while the adults abstain from eating such food items (Sun, 1999). Parents resistance to American foods and preference for traditional Chinese food is a likely reason why many Chinese dishes are still maintained in the diets of Chinese immigrants in America.

Fathers enforcement of traditional meals is another reason for the preservation of Chinese foods. Men are usually the head of households and tend to enforce traditional Chinese foods over Western foods. In a study of Chinese immigrants, they found that “even though many parents struggled to control children’s food choices, the father’s view of the importance of the Chinese dinner pattern had the most impact over the children’s preference for Western food” (Sun, 1999). The father’s power in determining the foods served at dinner is an important influence on the family dietary pattern and is one of the major determinants of how fast Western food is adopted into dinner. Mothers also play a significant role and if both parents resisted Western food the children’s demands would not be heard. Though mothers tend to be more sensitive to their children’s demands, only if the father changed his personal preferences and flexibility about meal choices were Western food items served to everyone at dinner(Sun, 1999). Since fathers are usually the main ones determining meal choices for families, they are part of the reason why certain Chinese dishes are maintained after immigration.

Changes in the environment from busier lifestyles to food availability have all been factors that contribute to the change in dietary habits and food practices among Chinese immigrants. Traditional Chinese food pattern provides less total fat, saturated fat, cholesterol, and calcium than the typical American dietary pattern(Sun, 1999). While American food typically has higher total fat and sodium since many of the food is highly processed and typically many foods are made excessive amounts of oil and butter. When Chinese immigrants move to the United States, they begin to slowly adopt eating typical American food. This is especially seen in children and young adults as they are exposed more to Western culture through school. For the adults, many of them either start to incorporate more Western dishes likely because their ingredients for Chinese food are limited, they learn of more Western dishes and are open to trying them or just do not have time to prepare traditional food. Over time through more exposure to Western culture, many Chinese immigrant families begin to prepare less Chinese dishes. Though living in the United States changes much of their dietary habits there are still traditions that remain constant. Many older Chinese(especially males) play a significant role in maintaining traditional dishes, either because of their preferences or to preserve traditional beliefs. This is important because many immigrants would not immediately immerse in the new culture and tend to stick with people of their own culture, therefore they would not typically change their dietary habits so drastically. Yet, for many Chinese people, they changed their eating habits significantly once immigrating to the United States. In conclusion, the environment is a significant driving force for the change in dietary habits among Chinese immigrants. 

An attribute to Rhapsody of Pasta ( Rhapsody of Fufu) Nikki Olagbegi

Foods like amala and eba 

Made with stews like efo riro and ogbono

Served on huge plates for everyone to eat

These food originating from the Yoruba towns

And newer preparation for these dishes originating from outsider towns

 

In the spring, the time before the rainy season

And the time when many crops are beginning to be picked

As the weather warms up 

Everyone plays outside and at night 

It’s the best time for suya

 

As celebrations are on the rise

People dress in their best Ankara and drink Malta

We sit in the shades fanning ourselves

As we cook chicken stew

Served best with a plate of rice

 

As fall comes along  

The rain finally tapers off

And the mosquitoes begin to dissipate

Everyone begins to use their big bean pot

The time when ewa oloyin must be eaten 

And paired with garri or bread

 

In the wintertime

The driest and coldest season

When everyone comes back home

a time to warm up and have a joyful conversation

A little pepper soup is the best

 

Therefore each dish is served best for a particular time

Depending on the occasion and weather

If it were to be served out of order 

The food might not be as pleasant for the season

 

I chose to imitate Rhapsody of Pasta. This piece connected with me as the author describes specific foods for particular seasons and thinking of my childhood, my family would do the same thing too. So, I decided to write my poem using foods related to each of the seasons in my culture. Through writing this poem, I learned that the author describes the seasons through nature outside. This was a new insight for me since we tend not to emphasize the weather so much where my family is from. Also, the weather doesn’t change drastically from one season to the other and really there are only 2 distinct seasons in Nigeria. Therefore I did some research and I learned about how nature plays a part in my culture. Also, I noticed how big of a part Bing plays in the author’s culture as he often mentions the different versions mentioned earlier in the reading. I think there is a cultural DNA in the piece as Shu xi mentions specific dishes such as angan and bozhang that are not even well known to the authors. I also incorporated dishes specific to my culture as I was writing this piece and tried to write of situations when I would have these dishes such as pepper soup and suya. Pepper soup is a very spicy dish and typically the best time to have it is in the winter to warm up and clear any sinus. Suya is another spicy dish made by cooking meat on skewers. Since it is primarily cooked outdoors it is best to have it early spring when the weather isn’t too cold and before the rainy season begins.

The noodle as a cultural relic Nikki Olagbegi

I consider noodles almost like clay in that you can make it into whatever you want because of its versatility.

 

Noodles in China have a long history of being tied with a cultural experience or location. According to the reading noodle: traditionally and today, noodles have local characteristics.  For example, In East China, there are Shanghai noodles in superior soup. There are also many cultural practices centered around the noodle such as birthdays when people eat longevity noodles and at the time of marriage, they eat noodles with gravy also known as flavored life. Noodles are even characterized by the seasons or festivals where they are present, such as the dragon whiskers noodles eaten at the longtaitou festival. Traditions of preparing noodles typically stay in the cultures for long periods of time like the Bamboo pole noodle that is found in the southern part of China and has a long history in the culture even though it was labor-intensive and time-consuming. Even with being tied to a cultural experience though the identity of the noodle could change. For example, In history, the Dan Dan noodle was known for the way it was sold on the shoulder pole and after a long period of time when it wasn’t sold as a street snack because of government restrictions it was later known for the way it prepared with including minced meat and a vegetable preserve.  

 Italians noodles have a long history that is well tied to cultural traditions. In the 1300s pasta was often taken on long voyages because it could last for long periods of time. Like Chinese noodles, pasta is often regionally characterized, There are roughly 300 different shapes and varieties of dried pasta in Italy. For example, ziti is known to the region of Sicily and Penne is known to the region of Campania. Even Italians have pasta known for certain events. When I visited Siena for the Palio, they would serve specific dishes like pici alla lepre. This kind of dish has a huge cultural significance in that it is usually prepared and served among several other dishes the night before the festival. At this time by eating this food and singing and dancing, each of the Contrads (neighborhoods) are hoping that they would have a huge accomplishment at the festival.

The noodle is an important staple in Chinese traditions.  To people in China, noodles are a kind of cereal food and also the main source of energy.  Similarly, for Italians, it is an as important staple in the article truth about pasta the authors talk about how pasta meals have roots that stretch back to ancient times and how they would often have foods accompanied with pasta and that tradition has continued now.  The authors also talk about the Mediterranean diet and how the foundation of this cuisine is pasta because they are so easily prepared and versatile in the foods they can be prepared with.  

In China, the noodle plays an integral role,  primarily due to its long history in the culture as a simple and easy to cook food. Chinese noodles originated in the Han dynasty. At that time, they were collectively referred to as cake. Also, the reading Dan Dan noodles talk about Xie Laobans Dan Dan noodles were a  pick me up a cure for hangover a heartache and the perfect antidote to the gray humidity of the Chengdu climate. Therefore Chinese also believe noodles can have health benefits.

For Italians, pasta is a quintessential dish because of its versatility in how it can be prepared and it can be easily prepared. As stated in the article, the truth about pasta, “Pasta may be the most convenient, delicious health food out there. It can be found at parties. It’s good for adventurous palates and simple tastes. It is not expensive and it’s quick to prepare; it’s a regular on restaurant menus and grocery shelves; and, a pasta meal actually works two-fold by being a fantastic vehicle for other healthy foods.” There are so many benefits to pasta that its hard not to depend on a dish like this. 

I would consider the noodle as a staple food that can be prepared in a plethora of ways,  an integral part of the culture, and prepared for various purposes from special events, to family meals, to remedies for an illness.

Caribbean traditions in American soil: Nikki Olagbegi

For this study, I decided to interview a close friend whose culture is very similar to my culture. Her family has cultural practices originating from Jamaica and Lebanon. While my family has cultural practices originating from Nigeria. We both have similarities in that many of our cultural practices originate from Africa, yet there are still some differences. I am conducting a study on her in order to evaluate how the differences in our culture are reflected in how we prepare food. In my evaluation of her culture and how the kitchen table is used, I am applying the anthropological methods mentioned in Eating Culture: an anthropological guide to food. Some of the methods I will use include using cultural relativism, participant observation, genealogy, and cultural comparison.

I stood with my friend as she was making meals with her mom and asked her how meals were eaten on regular occasions. She responded: On regular occasions, before and after meals the kitchen table is used for her to study and for her parents to do work. During meals, it was usually just herself at the kitchen at the dinner table and her parents stayed in the living room to unwind. School was the only time that she would have a communal meal and where she would feel normal. This was similar in her family history as her grandparents would also leave her mom at the dinner table with her siblings. It was hard to keep her family together for meals since the adults were always preoccupied with work and other issues. 

Then I asked her about what special occasions were like. She responded: usually, family gatherings were for special holidays such as Christmas or Thanksgiving. During these events, adults and children would sit together separately out of respect for their elders. Even as she got older, her family separated the younger family members from the older family members. Fish Frys are events where her family members would help each other cook. It was also expected for the women in the family to serve the meals to the men but everyone else self serves their food. These occasions people would eat together in the living room to watch TV rather than the kitchen table. People don’t talk as much during meals because most of the conversations happen while making meals or after the food is finished. 

Next, I asked her about the cultural classifications of food and how her family prepared certain dishes. She responded: A unique dish that my dad would make for me in the mornings was called porridge: made of cassava with sweet oatmeals. Her family believes breakfast foods need to be heavy such as beef patties to have energy. It was also common in her family to have sweets in the morning as many Jamaicans believed it was good for energy. Religious classifications for food

I then ask her about any religious practices for food. She responded: Our traditions in a Muslim household included following the practices written in the Quran. Her family would pray before meals. When fasting for Ramadan happened if anyone was participating, out of respect to them, everyone would fast together. Meals could be eating before dawn and after dusk. They pray 5 times a day out of practice and are not to think of food. 

I then ask her about what she thinks is unique to her culture in order to make cultural comparisons. She responded: Traditionally food is cooked outside of the house because it is smoked or grilled. Food is cooked all day or sometimes prepared days in advance and served in big pots/plates. For special events, Jamaicans make a special bread and oxtails. On her mom’s side of the family special tea cakes are made with her mom and her grandma to serve at parties. As for my culture, my family typically makes most dishes inside since most dishes are boiled or fried. Like Jamaicans, Nigerians also prepare food in large servings because we believe in always having more than enough food so that even if guests come there is always plenty of food to go around. In the past, dishes with Hen or seafood used to only be prepared on special occasions since they were hard to get. Now, most dishes made on special occasions are also made on a regular basis at home. 

My questions from this interview have shown me how different cultures can be paralleled. In my culture, we also use the kitchen table to study before meals and usually eat separately during meals but not because my parents were busy. Usually, everyone in my family prefers to eat at different times so we usually just ate separately.  Special occasions were the main times I would sit together with my family. Usually, our family would separate the older family members from the younger family members out of respect. My family is also very religious and typically at any event, we would pray and dance before we would have meals. Overall from conducting this interview, I can see how my friend and my culture have the same cultural traditions related to food done in different ways. 

Nigerian Jollof Rice

Jollof rice is a very special dish among my family. My family is part of the Yoruba tribe in Nigeria. A significant part of Nigerian culture is celebrating achievements and milestones in a big way. These celebrations could be a baby naming ceremony to a graduation party to a traditional wedding. These events usually involve traditional music, dancing, and food. The food at these celebrations are essential and it is expected to have more than enough for everyone. These events can have from 50 to 100s of people. Therefore to have enough food to accommodate everyone, huge pots of food are made days in advance. One of the main dishes at any Nigerian celebration includes jollof rice.  

I like jollof rice a lot because it has a lot of strong flavors and it’s spicy. When I think of other rice dishes there aren’t many that I have that I could eat that the main part of the entree is the rice. I think because of my enjoyment of having this dish makes me look forward to having dinner with my family. It’s also one of the few dishes that my mom, my sister, and I would make together. The times when we would prepare jollof rice together were a really good bonding time for us. We would play music, dance, and reminisce. Even now as I make the dish on my own I would invite my friends and do the same thing. Jollof rice is a very important dish to me because it brings people together.  

Jollof rice is a dish made throughout West Africa. Each country prepares the dish slightly different but they all have the same essential ingredients: rice, tomatoes, peppers, onions, and broth. The name of the dish Jollof is derived from the Wolof ethnic group in Senegal, Gambia, and Mauritania. The origin of the dish is still highly debated but researchers think it originated from Mali. Though jollof rice might have originated elsewhere the biggest countries known to be the home of jollof rice is Nigeria and Ghana. In Nigeria, jollof rice is served as a main dish at events along with plantains, meat, and vegetables. In Ghana jollof rice is served with spaghetti, plantains, and vegetables, shito, and meat.