Author: Zoe Walker

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Noodles Around the World

Zoe Walker

Abstract

In the course of their migration around the world, noodles have been significantly influenced and changed by the culture around them. Starting with the background of noodles and their homelands in both Italy and China, this paper will discuss the forms of travel noodles have taken to expand throughout the world. I will explore the role of noodles on multiple different continents and talk specifically about different noodle dishes from different countries on those continents. Using each dish as a representation of the country, I will discuss the history and culture of those regions and its association with that noodle dish. The importance of this paper is to show how the rest of the world took noodles from two predominantly noodle countries, Italy and China, and incorporate their own styles to make these noodles a part of their own personal history. In summary, noodles are multicultural and universal, they are not limited to a specific region and have adapted and changed throughout history.

            Food is culture. Food has influenced history, and in turn, historical events, customs, and traditions have influenced the food that is made and consumed. The ingredients used, the design of the dish, the flavors incorporated, and even the names of foods are all influenced by society and the culture surrounding it. One food that has been constantly growing, changing, and evolving over time is the noodle. Throughout this course, I have gained countless insights on the noodle and its journey throughout time, starting with the various theories of origin in either China or Italy 4,000 years ago. As we learned, a 4,000-year-old bowl of noodles was discovered in northwestern China providing evidence for the evolution of noodles beginning in China. There has also been the Marco Polo theory that Marco Polo traveled from to China from Italy and then returned to Italy with noodles which he introduced into the Italian culture. However, as the reading History of Pasta states, pasta was in Italy long before Marco Polo in forms such as lasagna mentioned as early as 1st century AD. Just as there are multiple theories that change and evolve, so do the noodles themselves throughout time. Classic Italian and Chinese noodle dishes have been created and perfected and over time they have become well established globally. With this expansion of noodles and noodle dishes around the world, various countries have created their own spins on pasta and noodle dishes that incorporate their past culture and history. Throughout this paper, I would like to delve into the spread of noodles around the globe and how countries have created their own noodle dishes to reflect their history and culture just as China and Italy have done.

            Noodles have traveled the expanse of the globe in various forms. One form that is well known is through the Silk Road. The Silk Road was established during the Han dynasty and established trade between the East and West, mostly between European countries and Asian countries as travel across the seas was not well established. In 1453 the Silk Road closed but, in its place, came the travel of noodles across the seas during the Age of Discovery, Columbian Exchange, and Triangular Trade. This form of trade expanded noodles across the sea to the New World such as North and South America. Over the course of time, new noodle dishes have been established around the world due to the massive global trade routes that were created over the years. In various continents such as Asia, Europe, South America, and Africa, renditions of Italian and Chinese noodle dishes have manifested. Dishes such as ramen from Japan, pho from Vietnam, Kaesespaetzle from Germany, sopa seca from Mexico, boerewors pasta from South Africa and so many more.

            Starting off in Asia, there are millions of noodle dishes that have been created from various countries in Asia full of culture and history. One of those countries is Japan with its famous noodle dish ramen. Ramen is considered the national dish of Japan and has grown in popularity worldwide. The dish consists of the noodles, broth, meat and vegetables. The noodles are made from wheat flour, salt, water, and baking soda which are simple ingredients similar to Italian and Chinese noodles. There are eighty-thousand ramen shops in the country of Japan and varying regions in Japan have different styles and variations of this dish. While this noodle can trace its roots to China, it migrated to Japan via Chinese immigrants in the 1880s where it gained its popularity and notoriety. Following the immigration of the Chinese noodle, in the 1910s ramen took on a Japanese spin with the inclusion of ingredients such as soy sauce, bamboo shoots and pork. This turned this dish into a hearty lunch food that was shared among Japanese workers. During the 1920s and 1930s ramen grew rapidly alongside the rapidly growing urban cities. This cheap, fast and nutritional dish fit perfectly within the confines of the modernizing and industrial lifestyle. However, following this boom in economy and ramen production came World War II. Shortages associated with war lowered the production of wheat noodles making it impossible for Japanese to enjoy ramen. By the end of the war in 1945, ramen dish consumption was extremely low. Over time the production of wheat noodles and other products increased as people returned to jobs in construction and heavy industry and the economy grew. As ramen culture continued to expand it began gaining attention globally. This reached its pinnacle in global popularity with the introduction and spread of instant ramen in the seventies. This invention created the fad that is instant ramen throughout the world. Since then ramen has become an international dish that is beloved around the world.

            There are many cultural ties associated with ramen throughout Japan’s history. Over the years there have been different variations of ramen dependent on regions, food preferences, religion, etc. According to the article 10 Types of Ramen and Where They Are From, ramen from regions of Hokkaido such as Sapporo, with its hearty rich flavors, and Asahikawa, with its layer of oil to trap in the heat, are designed to fight the harsh winters of the region. While it has been signature for the ramen broth to be made with meat, the adaptation of vegetarian broth has also manifested due to cultural shifts. Tantanmen which is a broth that incorporates tastes made from black or white sesame has allowed for the creation of vegetarian ramen throughout Japan. There has also been the creation of halal ramen which has becoming increasingly prevalent in Japan and other countries of the world.

            Another personal take on noodle dishes in Asia is pho noodles from Vietnam. Unlike the origination of Japanese ramen, the history of pho is not quite clear. There have been varying speculations of the origin story of Vietnamese pho. In the article Pho: The Vietnamese Addiction there are various theories such as it evolved from a Mongolian dish called Hot Pot. However, another theory suggests it came from Vietnamese nationalists living in the Chinese province of Yunnan. Here they learned to create local dishes such as a goat meat noodle soup which they took back to Vietnam and provided their own spin to it. Another theory speculates that pho was created to use up the leftover beef from the Vietnamese Tet (New Year’s) celebrations. While all of these origin stories claim to be the original, one theme is common: pho originated in Hanoi, northern Vietnam, and remained largely a northern Vietnamese dish for a long time. That is until 1954 when millions of Vietnamese fled south and settled in Saigon to escape the communist regime of the north. With this mass migration to the south came the spread of pho to the southern region. This also created a separation between Hanoi (north) and Saigon (south) pho noodles. The different styles of pho noodles created in these parts of Vietnam and smaller regions throughout the country have all been influenced by local cultural ideas and customs. There are northerners who believe the purest form of pho contains beef, fish sauce, lemon juice, chilis and sliced onions. There are southerners who enjoy the addition of sprouts, hot peppers, or chili black bean sauce. There have also been versions that substitute beef for chicken which is a lighter healthier taste. With all these regional variations of this beloved Vietnamese dish, there is still a standard requirement that must be met when making pho. The broth must be clear and void of any blood or fat indicating that the cook properly skinned and cleaned the bones. The proper bones must be used to create a harmonious broth that ties together all the ingredients and spices. There is also the importance of the freshness and quality of the ingredients. All ingredients, especially the meat, should be fresh not frozen to maintain all the rich flavors. In regard to the making of the noodles, they should be made from a paste of ground rice, alum and water then rolled flat and cut into thin noodle slices. If all of this is followed, you are sure to create an authentically delicious pho noodle dish. Throughout all these cooking criteria, the theme of fresh, handmade, local ingredients is integral to the making of pho noodles. This theme of using fresh and authentic ingredients can be seen throughout the course on Chinese and Italian noodles as well and it is clear to see that this idea and belief has spread through other countries along with the noodles themselves.

            Moving into the continent of Europe, there are many countries and many cultures that have taken the noodle and created a dish with a sprinkle of their own personal history. As stated, the Silk road provided the means of transportation of goods between the East and the West. While it is believed that noodles weren’t brought to Italy via Marco Polo and the Silk road, this means of transportation still provided noodles with the access to spread into other European countries. In Germany the pasta dish Kaesespaetzle is an adaptation of the noodle which is similar to the American dish macaroni and cheese. Kaesespaetzle is made with spaetzle pasta which is beloved in Germany and is used to make many different pasta dishes. Spaetzle originated in the region of Swabia in Germany and is a staple in this region. Dating back to medieval times in 1725, spaetzle has been a big part of German culture and heritage. Various poems and songs were written about it as it was celebrated and loved by the people. In the article The History of Spaetzle the author mentions a poet Josef Eberle who called it “…The Foundation of our cuisine, … the glory of our country, …the alpha and omega of Swabian cuisine….”. Along with the culture and heritage of the pasta itself there is significance in the name spaetzle. It is speculated that the name comes from the German word spatzen which translates to little sparrow. The implications behind this name are widely speculated. Some believe the food got its name by how the people held the dough in their hand like it was a little sparrow to mold it and get its shape. Others believe that the dough was formed into 2 oval shapes resembling a sparrow’s body. Whichever theory is believed, it is clear that there is a lot of culture surrounding this German pasta.

            Spaetzle is pieces of dough cooked in boiling water. The pasta is made from flour, egg, and water and the pieces are non-uniform. From this pasta comes a variety of dishes one of which is Kaesespaetzle. This dish is referred to as the German macaroni and cheese, but it has a denser pasta, regional cheese, and fried onions. As a result, this creamy dish has become a source of comfort food throughout the country. Homemade spaetzle is made using a spaetzle board and a scraper. It is then layered with shredded Emmenteler cheese and caramelized onions and baked in an oven.

            Moving into the country of Spain, a pasta called cannelloni has moved from its origins in Italy and has become more popular and celebrated in the region of Catalonia, Spain. Cannelloni became popular in Catalonia in the 19th century and was renamed canelons in this region. In the past, when these dishes were gaining notoriety in Catalonia, they were filled with the leftover meat from celebrations on Christmas day including the one called the “one-pot meal tradition”. As a result, this dish is most commonly consumed on December 26th which is called Boxing Day or Saint Stephen’s Day. Due to the tradition of using the meat leftovers, canelons (Catalonia) have gained their distinction from cannelloni (Italy). In Catalonia they are stuffed with the cooked meat while in Italy they use minced meat mixed with tomatoes. The tradition of eating canelons on this day still exists; however, these pastas can also be filled with a variety of different ingredients such as meat, fish, vegetables or cheese. These stuffed pastas are then covered with béchamel sauce, which is said to also originate from Italy, and grated cheese. This Catalonian dish can also be paired with Spanish wine and nutmeg to tie the dish together.

            Noodles are non-conforming and adapt depending on the region they are in. Through this dish you can see how these noodles travel and other countries apply their own culture and tradition to it. While the pasta is the same in both Italy and Spain and there are still commonalities, you can see how the region of Catalonia has created its own dish that breaks away from the Italian version. Starting with the name and ending with the drinks paired with it, these two adaptations of this pasta are different and indicative of the culture of that region.

            In the continent of South America there are countless countries that have their own form of noodles. In Mexico there is the dish sopa seca de fideo which translates to dry noodle soup. According to the article Sopa Seca de Fideo, Mexican Noodles, this dish is very common in Central Mexico and the process of cooking this dish is similar to the making of Mexican red rice or sopa de arroz. The noodles used in this dish are typically very thin, fideo or vermicelli noodles, and are cut then cooked before being added to cook with the other ingredients. It is traditional to use chicken cooked in oil for the broth. Then ingredients such as garlic, onions, peppers, and ají panca are added to the broth with tomatoes. The noodles are added to the broth and the noodles absorb the flavors marinating in the liquid. This dish has been deemed a comfort food in Mexico, but it is believed to have originated in Spain. However, it can also be traced further back to Italy since the pastas for this dish originally came from Italy. This noodle then traveled to South America during the various trade routes that were established such as the Columbian Exchange. Mexico has made this dish its own by including ingredients that were native to the land before the Columbian exchange such as chili peppers. This shows that like the history of the canelons dish from Spain, while the pasta may have formerly come from Italy, as it has traveled the expanse of the globe and established roots in Mexico, new ingredients and flavors have been added to the dish to make it uniquely Mexican.

            Traveling to the continent of Africa, there is the boerewors pasta from the country of South Africa. The headliner of this dish is boerewors which is a type of sausage that originated in South Africa and is an integral part of the South African cuisine. According to the article What is Boerewors? the name boerewors comes from the Afrikaans language and is broken down into “boer” (farmer) and “wors” (sausage). The sausage is traditionally made up of 90% meat such as beef, lamb, and pork and 10% spices such as coriander and black pepper. While it is a staple in South Africa, it is also common in other southern African countries such as Zimbabwe, Mozambique and Botswana. This sausage is thought to derive from a form of sausage that was made in southern France or the original recipes for this sausage came from South African migrants who brought them from the Netherlands. It is tradition to cook this sausage in a spiral shape during a “braai” meaning barbeque. Boerewors cooked over a braai is a part of the South African culture and is a strong patriotic tradition associated with national holidays. Moving into the pasta of this dish, various noodle shapes can be used such as penne or spaghetti, but it is common to use a tomato and basil sauce along with the grating of cheese on top. While it is clear the focal point of this dish is the boerewors, it is interesting to see how with the travel of noodles and Italian dishes to this region, you can take an Italian dish and add a South African twist by integrating the sausage that has so much cultural significance to this area. This shows the immersion of African culture in these European noodle dishes that have traveled over time due to colonization and expansion.

            In summary, it can be seen that noodles are a multi-national food that have traveled the expanse of the globe and been picked up and modified by different countries. No country’s adaptation of the noodle is the same as the next and each country finds its own way to incorporate its’ history and culture into the various noodles that cross its borders. This is indicative of history and culture itself. While various countries have various beliefs, customs, and traditions, they can all find a connection with the noodle and incorporate it into their lifestyles. Along with that, the noodle is able to change and evolve from region to region. This can be seen in the different names given to the same noodle in different regions, the different ingredients used dependent on what’s more suitable for that area, and even the occasions in which they consume these dishes. From the very beginning 4,000 years ago, noodles have left a mark on history and will continue to for 4,000 years more.

 

Work Cited

Aditya. “Noodles and Pasta around the World: International Recipes to Discover.” InterNations Blog. N.p., 03 Jan. 2017. Web. 08 Aug. 2019.

Brickman, Sophie. “The History of the Ramen Noodle.” The New Yorker, The New Yorker, 20 June 2017. Web.

“Boerewors.” Wikipedia. Wikimedia Foundation, 12 July 2019. Web. 09 Aug. 2019.

Busetto, Arielle. “A Tale of the Changing Culture of Ramen.” Japan Forward. N.p., 27 May 2018. Web. 08 Aug. 2019.

“Canelons: Cultura Popular.” Canelons | Cultura Popular. N.p., n.d. Web. 09 Aug. 2019.

Demetri, Justin. “History of Pasta.” Life in Italy. N.p., 10 May 2018. Web. 08 Aug. 2019.

Ettenberg, Jodi. “A Brief History of Chili Peppers.” Legal Nomads. N.p., 12 May 2019. Web. 09 Aug. 2019.

Greeley, Alexandra. “Phở: The Vietnamese Addiction.” Gastronomica, vol. 2, no. 1, 2002, pp. 80–83. JSTOR, www.jstor.org/stable/10.1525/gfc.2002.2.1.80.

Herman, Alison. “The Messy History of Ramen.” First We Feast. First We Feast, 01 June 2018. Web. 08 Aug. 2019.

“The History of Spaetzle.” The Kitchen Project , The Complete Cooking Experience. N.p., 11 May 2018. Web. 09 Aug. 2019.

Killebrew, Kimberley. “Authentic Schwäbische Käsespätzle (German Cheese Spaetzle).” The Daring Gourmet. N.p., 23 Mar. 2019. Web. 09 Aug. 2019.

Mark, Joshua J. “Silk Road.” Ancient History Encyclopedia. Ancient History Encyclopedia, 06 Aug. 2019. Web. 08 Aug. 2019.

Mendel, Janet. “MY HOMAGE TO CATALONIA.” MY HOMAGE TO CATALONIA. N.p., 01 Jan. 1970. Web. 09 Aug. 2019.

Ozimek, Sarah. “Boerewors (South African Sausage) and a Taste of South African Safari • Curious Cuisiniere.” Curious Cuisiniere. N.p., 09 Jan. 2019. Web. 09 Aug. 2019.

“The Origin of Cannelloni – Borges – Mediterranean Cuisine.” Borges. N.p., n.d. Web. 09 Aug. 2019.

Roach, John. “4,000-Year-Old Noodles Found in China.” National Geographic. N.p., 12 Oct. 2005. Web. 08 Aug. 2019.

Solt, George. “The Untold History of Ramen.” Google Books. N.p., 2014. Web. 08 Aug. 2019.

“Sopa De Fideo.” Wikipedia. Wikimedia Foundation, 16 Dec. 2018. Web. 09 Aug. 2019.

Sur, Como. “Uncovering The Afro-Peruvian Influence: Carapulcra And Sopa Seca.” Como Sur | South American Gastronomy. N.p., 18 Mar. 2014. Web. 09 Aug. 2019.

“A Tale of the Changing Culture of Ramen.” Japan Forward. N.p., 28 May 2018. Web. 08 Aug. 2019.

Tan, Alethea. “10 Types Of Ramen and Where They Are From.” MICHELIN Guide. N.p., 02 Oct. 2017. Web. 08 Aug. 2019.

“What Is Boerewors?” Biltong St Marcus. N.p., 16 Jan. 2018. Web. 09 Aug. 2019.

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Dr. Li’s Zha Jiang Mian Noodles

Zoe Walker

From the very beginning, this ethnographic interview has opened my eyes and deepened my understanding of the cultural and historical influence food plays in people’s lives. Starting from the first moment I entered Dr. Li’s house I began learning and witnessing her culture and customs even outside of noodles. When I first walked in, I noticed right by the door there was a row of shoes neatly lined up and it was clear I was supposed to remove my shoes as well. Dr. Li then provided me with a pair of comfortable slippers for me to put on and wear throughout the interview. This showed me that not only are Chinese traditions in connection to noodles important in her daily life but other Chinese customs as well. By participating in this act of removing my shoes I felt like I was paying respect to her culture while also getting to experience it. From then on, I was able to learn a lot about China’s history with noodles but more specifically Dr. Li’s history with noodles and how it’s similar and different to traditional Chinese practices.

Dr. Li was born in a city next to Beijing, China where she lived all throughout her school years. Since there is no undergraduate school in China, after graduating high school Dr. Li went straight into graduate school. Dr. Li attended Beijing Medical University for 5 years where she got a degree in pediatrics. She then graduated and began working in Beijing in pediatrics and research for six years. Following this, she worked in two other countries, Japan and Finland, before moving to the United States in 2005. Dr. Li now works at Emory University where she is a Physician Researcher and works in the Genetics Department as a Geneticist. Throughout all the years of living in different countries, Chinese noodles have constantly influenced Dr. Li culturally in many different ways. As a result of spending so many of her younger years in China, Dr. Li has a strong connection and nostalgia associated with Chinese dishes. During the interview, Dr. Li mentions how when she was younger certain dishes reminded her of different memories and how today she tries to bring back those memories by recreating the same dishes that she made when she was young. These specific noodle dishes have provided her with a connection to her culture and allowed her to maintain these traditions that she might have lost over time. Another way Chinese noodles have influenced Dr. Li’s culture is that she has begun a tradition of making Chinese dishes with her daughter who was raised in the United States. The Chinese noodle dishes they make together allow her daughter to experience China’s culture even though she wasn’t born and raised there. She mentioned a Chinese dish called Zha Jiang Mian that she describes as a sesame sauce. The sesame seeds are ground up to retain the oil and a sesame paste deposit which is mixed with water to create the sauce. You can then add in garlic and oil and then it is put on over the noodles. This is her daughter’s favorite dish and she mentions that whenever she makes it her daughter will join in and help create the sauce, and it is a dish that they enjoy making together. This dish is a vessel that allows Dr. Li and her daughter to connect while also providing an experience for her daughter to cook an authentic Chinese dish that is a part of both of their history and culture. During the interview, Dr. Li talked about how her culture is also influenced by the region that the noodle dishes are made in. In China, the popular dishes you consume are dependent on the province you are in, so the influences that affect your dish making can change from place to place. Dishes from other provinces such as Sichuan Dan Dan Mian noodles and Shanxi Dao Xiao Mian noodles, which are more commonly known as knife-cut noodles, have both been incorporated in the list of noodle dishes that Dr. Li enjoys. As a result of Dr. Li traveling from region to region and immersing in the culture of that specific region, the variety of dishes she encounters adds another layer to her culture and history.

While we mentioned many delicious dishes that have all influenced Dr. Li’s history, her favorite dish and the one we made together is Zha Jiang Mian. This name has different connotations such as “noodles with soybean paste” or “fried sauce”. These meanings come from the incorporation of soybean paste in the sauce which is then stir-fried with pork, eggs and other ingredients. Dr. Li mentions that this dish originated in the Shandong province and there is an ancient fable of how it migrated to Beijing. When an empress tried this dish after a long days travel and loved it, she decided to take this dish with her to the forbidden city in Beijing where it was tried and loved by all the emperors and empresses. It was then incorporated in the Beijing region and has become a popular dish ever since. There is also a cultural tradition associated with this noodle that Dr. Li partakes in. This dish is eaten for three reasons: three days after a person is born, three days after they pass and every year in between on their birthday to increase the longevity of their life. Since it was my sister’s birthday on the day of this interview, it was perfectly fitting for us to create this dish. Regarding the ingredients, wheat production is very common in northern China and as a result of this regional influence, Zha Jiang Mian noodles are made with wheat flour. While this component has been kept consistent, Over time the changes in China’s society has influenced other factors in the making of this noodle dish. Dr. Li mentioned while we were cooking that even though it was originally common to make the dough with just flour and water, over time there has been an incorporation of adding in a milk and egg mixture to incorporate more nutrition into the noodles. In the earlier centuries of China when there were more poor and rural communities it was common to use water to make the flour as it was cheaper. As China has grown and prospered over time, the incorporation of ingredients that are considered more expensive such as milk and eggs can be added to the dish to obtain a higher nutritional value. Another change that Dr. Li has incorporated into this dish and her diet is the use of lean pork when cooking the Zha Jiang Mian. In China, it is traditional to use fatty pork but as information has come out on the importance of a healthy diet, Chinese societies have adapted to incorporate healthier options.

During the interview, Dr. Li also talks about how American culture has influenced the dishes she eats and makes today.  Dr. Li mentions that when she came to America many of the Chinese dishes she encountered were Chow Mein or Lo Mein which, while they are common here in America, they are not as common in China. She mentions that when you do see it in China it is usually not homemade because it is not a traditional Chinese dish. As a result, this was a cultural change that she had to adapt to especially if she would go to a Chinese restaurant instead of cooking at home. Another way that American culture has manifested itself in the noodle dishes Dr. Li makes is in the vegetables she uses in her dishes. During the interview, Dr. Li mentions that her daughter grew up eating the vegetables common in American and when she found vegetables at the Chinese market that you wouldn’t normally find in a regular grocery store, her daughter never fully adapted to the taste. As a result, Dr. Li has incorporated various American vegetables into her Chinese dishes instead of Chinese vegetables. One example is in the Zha Jiang Mien noodles. While she still included beansprouts, cucumbers and carrots, Dr. Li incorporated asparagus which is not a common vegetable used in Zha Jiang Mian. She also did not incorporate Chinese cabbage and radishes which is common in a traditional Chinese rendition of this dish. American influence has also become a part of the cultural DNA of the noodles Dr. Li consumes by the incorporation of instant noodles in some of her dishes. In Chinese culture, it is a tradition to make homemade noodles due to its authenticity and freshness, two key factors when making traditional Chinese noodles. This is also the form of noodles that Dr. Li prefers, but over time, living in the United States, Dr. Li has incorporated American adaptations of noodles such as dry and instant noodles. While not as often eat at home, these forms of noodles have become another part of Dr. Li’s cultural history with noodles.

Overall, through both anthropological methods of interview and participant-observation, I was able to learn and increase my knowledge on the cultural impacts noodles have had on Dr. Li’s life. Through this experience, I have gained insight into parts of the Chinese culture that I could not have obtained otherwise. I have also been able to experience making a traditional Chinese dish and see how both Chinese societal changes and American influences have impacted the noodle dishes that are considered a part of Dr. Li’s history. By not only getting to interview Dr. Li but also be a part of making Zha Jiang Mian I was able to immerse myself in the Chinese culture while making a dish to celebrate another year of long life for a family member I care for. This I believe is a model illustration of how Chinese noodles can have a personal influence on history and culture.

link to the video: https://youtu.be/qwk0t2c4By4

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Spaghetti Carbonara

Zoe Walker

PRIMI PIATTI

Spaghetti Carbonara

Spaghetti Carbonara is a classic Italian dish. This dish is simple and easy to make while also using one of the most popular pasta in Italian culture, spaghetti. One origin story of how Spaghetti Carbonara got its name is because Carbonara roughly means “in the manner of coal miners” and the sprinkling of black pepper gives the illusion of coal dust against the creamy pasta. The dish originated in Rome which can be seen through the specific cheeses used in its preparation. This classic Italian dish is one of my favorites because it has become a trademark dish for me and my grandpa to make together. Seeing as we are both not very skilled in cooking, Spaghetti Carbonara with its five main ingredients of spaghetti, pancetta, eggs, hard cheese, and black pepper is an easy way for us to feel like experts in the kitchen. On Saturdays, we would cook together and serve it for my whole family. This dish had a great way of connecting me and my grandfather through the years and allowed us to bond over a shared experience of cooking.

Generously salt a pot of  6 quarts of water until it tastes like the ocean. Add in your pound of spaghetti to cook for 8 to 10 min until al dente. While the pasta is cooking heat a large skillet and add in 8 pounds of pancetta until it is golden crispy. In a bowl mix 4 eggs, ½ cup of grated Pecorino, and ½ a cup of grated Parmigiano-Reggiano. Add your spaghetti to your pan of pancetta and mix them together. Remove the pan from the heat and add in the egg and cheese mixture while stirring quickly to create your creamy sauce. Add in the final touch of cracked black pepper by sprinkling it on over the pasta. Enjoy!

  1. The piece I chose to imitate was Under the Tuscan Sun by Frances Mayes.
  2. I chose this piece because I loved that she included personal or cultural information about each dish before she went into describing the recipes. She took on a personal approach to describing many of Italy’s celebrated dishes and made me feel connected to the author and her history with these dishes.
  3. I learned a lot about the culture and regions where these different dishes are made. In many of the varying dishes, Mayes mentioned what holidays or occasions they are eaten at or what regions they originated from. This allowed me to get a deeper understanding of the dish and learn more about it beyond its ingredients. I also learned about the typical dishes eaten during the different courses of the meals such as Antipasti, Primi Piatti, Secondi, Contorni, and Dolci. By including dishes from each of the different courses that are in the Italian culture, I learned about a wide variety of dishes and when they are best served. This also allowed me to learn about other amazing Italian dishes besides pasta such as Faraone with Fennel.
  4. I learned a lot more about my grandpa’s personal history with this dish and why this is a dish that he enjoys making. While this dish is something me and my grandpa make together, I learned from him that he used to make this dish with his mother as well. When he was growing up in New York this was a dish they would make together on special occasions and cook it for the rest of his family. It was one of the few times that they would get to sit down together as a family and enjoy a meal. As a result, he has very good memories tied to this meal and wanted to pass down the tradition to us. This was very fascinating to learn about because it made feel like I had a relationship and connection to my great-grandma who I never met.
  5. I believe there is definitely cultural DNA embedded in the piece I read and in my piece as well. In the reading of Under the Tuscan Sun, Mayes talks a lot about her personal history with many of the different dishes she mentions. Her personal culture and history is the backbone of this article and allows you to see that her cultural DNA is an important part of this piece. Examples of this show up many times such as when she talks about a quail dish. When describing this dish, she first mentions how her father was a hunter and would catch the quails himself which puts a personal spin on the meal. When I replicated my piece in the same manner, I added in my own personal cultural history with the Spaghetti Carbonara and got to learn more about past history with this dish that I didn’t know. By including this cultural DNA, it creates a more personal and relatable piece that allows people to draw on their own personal experiences as they read it.

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The Ever Changing Noodle

Zoe Walker

The definition of the noodle goes beyond the description of it as a food. While describing a noodle as a strip, ring or tube of dough typically made with eggs and eaten with sauce or soups is a great definition, I believe it is not entirely encompassing. A full definition would also touch on all the things the noodle represents throughout Chinese and Italian culture.

The noodle while made of simplistic ingredients such as flour, water and eggs, is a complex and multi-layered food that can be shaped and created based on the culture and history surrounding it. Noodles reflect the people that make them and the thousand different shapes and dishes that are created with the noodle reflect the thousands of stories and historical events that have been created right alongside them.

This is my definition of the noodle and what it really means. Through the readings and videos throughout this class, I have realized more and more that this is a more fitting definition. When talking about the identity of the noodle you are not just talking about the ingredients that make it up but the culture and history that are just as influential in the makeup of the noodle.

In the reading Noodles, Traditionally and Today there is a section titled “The Stories of Noodles”. In this section, the author talks about how Chinese noodle dishes play roles in aspects of religion and economy. Certain dishes are associated with specific holidays and events such as eating dumplings in Spring Festival. Along with that, there are many customs that are associated with noodles such as the longevity noodles being eaten at birthdays as a sign of good luck and prosperity. This section also goes on to talk about how the names of different noodle dishes are assigned based on historical stories from the past. Qishan minced noodles are also called sister-in-law noodles and ashamed son noodles are based on stories passed down and shared throughout Chinese history. This section shows many different examples of how the noodle reflects the culture of the Chinese region and the people that create them. Different forms of noodles stand for different cultural beliefs in the region and even the naming of noodles is a reflection of Chinese history and culture. Another reading that shows how noodles encompass the Chinese culture is Crossing the Bridge. This story is based in the region of Yunan and is about a man whose son could not pass the Imperial Exam. There were many things I gained from this story and how the noodle reflects the Chinese culture. This story reflects the Chinese belief of prosperity and good luck that comes with the noodle. By consuming the hot egg noodle dish, the boy was able to concentrate and pass the momentous exam that he had been unable to pass. This story also reflects the culture of how the noodle brings people together in community. In the story, the boy was isolated from his home until he could pass the exam. Due to the love and community surrounding the cook and the boy, the dish that the cook created was able to reunite him back with his family and home.

In the reading History of Pasta, there are many examples of how the noodle has influenced Italian culture and history. The article mentions how wherever the Italians immigrated they took their pasta with them. This shows that pasta has been changed and influenced based on the many different regions it has gone in Italian history. Pasta has gone back thousands of years so both pasta and history have influenced each other over time. Pasta dishes created in the 8th century were heavily influenced by the Arabic invasion during that time which can be reflected in the culture and history of Italy which was also influenced by the Arabic invasion. Many Sicilian pasta recipes today include middle eastern ingredients such as raisins and cinnamon due to the original Arabic influence. During the 1300s, dried pasta was very popular due to its nutrition and longevity. This was a great reflection of the time period and the people who made it because many people during that time were poor and relied on food that was cheap and easy to make. As a result, it became a staple in Italy and grew in popularity. As a result, today Italians consume over sixty pounds of pasta each per year. This I believe shows how noodles have become a reflection of Italian culture, regions and cities.

Noodles have become an integral part of both Italian and Chinese food, cuisine and culture. The noodle plays such an integral role in the food culture of these countries because they have become such a family-oriented food. Family and community have been the center of Italy and China’s culture for thousands of years. The creation of noodles as a food that can be made and eaten together has allowed for this food to become such an important part of these countries cultures. This has then led into the expansion of different shapes and sizes of noodles as it has migrated throughout these countries and grown and changed with the history. Over time noodles haven’t just played a role in these cultures but have become the representation and definition of the cultures as well.

This picture encompasses the definition of noodle. In this picture, friends are gathered together as they share a Chinese noodle dish. This represents the community and fellowship that comes with eating noodles which is a key factor of the noodle.

 

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Journal #2 by Zoe Walker: The 100-Year-Old Table

My name is Zoe Walker a rising sophomore at Emory and for this particular assignment, I interviewed my Great Aunt Gwen about the history and cultural significance of her 100-year-old dining table. I conducted this particular interview because I feel like it is always important to know the history surrounding your family and your ancestors. Most of the family on my mother’s side now lives here in Georgia so there are always many opportunities to learn more about my history and the family’s migration from all over the world to where we are now. With that in mind, I believe one of the best ways to learn the history and culture of a family is to learn about life and history in the kitchen. As I have learned throughout this course, food is shaped by the people that create the food in each region and more importantly how it is set up and presented for meals. By learning about my great aunt’s dining table and getting to understand it as a cultural artifact, I can delve deeper into the history and culture of my family and how it has been shaped over time.

There are nearly one hundred years of history surrounding my great aunt’s table. Starting off the interview my great aunt mentions that the table was built in 1920 and is an oak round table with a pedestal and legs that are designed to look like lions’ feet. This was very indicative of the design style of that time. It is not as common to find that degree of flair today as tables and chairs have taken on a modern sleeker look. The lions’ feet give the table a regal ancestral feel to it, and to know my great aunt still holds on to it and it’s a focal point in the kitchen was fascinating to me. My great aunt purchased this table from an antique furniture store in her former neighborhood, Corona Heights, New York. She said that she used to shop second-hand stores because her father, my great grandfather, owned a second-hand store used furniture store that had similar furniture to this table, and antique dealers would always come by his store and buy these types of tables from him. By purchasing from a second-hand store she was preserving the history and tradition of her father and the antique dealers who would buy handcrafted tables and other furniture from him. This information surrounding the table was particularly interesting to me because I never knew my great grandfather so to learn this about him and know that our family possessed a table similar to the ones he used to buy and sell was very moving to me.

As mentioned earlier I used the anthropological method of an interview to study the dining table. I chose this method because I wanted to get a personal recounting of the history of the table told from my great aunt who has had it in her possession for so many years. By hearing the history surrounding this table, I was able to be transported to those earlier years of my grandmother, great aunts, and uncles lives that I wasn’t able to personally experience. Throughout the interview, I learned many things surrounding the history of this kitchen table. Along with the history surrounding why my great aunt purchased this table, this table has been the focal points of meals all throughout her adult life. I asked her about her day to day life when she was first living on her own. She told me many stories of living in Queens in a shared 3 story house with my grandmother and their other sister. My grandmother lived on the top floor, my Great Aunt Gwen on the middle floor, and My Great Aunt Sarah on the bottom floor. Even though they each had their own separate areas of living, they always gathered on the second floor to cook and eat together around my Great Aunt Gwen’s table for dinner. The second floor is also where they had family gatherings when their brothers who moved to Washington D.C and California came to visit. I then asked my Aunt Gwen about life surrounding this table once she got married and had kids. I learned that each of my three aunts celebrated many of their birthdays at that table. My great aunt always covered the table with a specific table cloth and baked a cake and all the family in New York would come to celebrate. This tradition continued once my aunts started having kids, and then their kids had kids. Each of my nine cousins has celebrated a birthday at that table which is extremely significant. During the interview, I asked my great aunt if there was anything significant that she keeps on the table. She mentioned that in the center of

the table there is an African basket my mom brought back from Africa when she visited during medical school. This also ties in my African heritage and I thought it was significant that this basket is the centrepiece of this table just like my African history is the center of my family. There are also wooden placemats that have all been written on by her nine grandchildren. She mentioned that while it may like scribbled writings from children, she loves these placemats because they are decorated with the writing of her grandkids.

Overall from this interview, I learned so much about the history surrounding my great aunt and my family. There are so many practices and traditions surrounding this kitchen table that have been ingrained in my aunt and our family. This table has served as a place for all of the family members to gather together no matter what occasion and celebrate together. This table also holds memories created not only from my aunt’s lifetime of having it but for the other families who owned it before it made it to the second-hand store where she bought it. It is obvious that the practices and functions of this table will live on through the next generation of family members who hold on to this 100-year-old table.

Kaya and her birthday cake

Family gathering for my Great Aunt Gwen’s granddaughter Kaya’s birthday.

My Great Aunt Gwen’s 100-year-old kitchen table

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Zoe Walker Journal #1: Jamaican Ackee and Saltfish with Fried Dumplings

A dish that is important to me and represents my family and cultural background is a Jamaican dish called ackee and saltfish with fried dumplings. Ackee and saltfish is a traditional breakfast eaten in Jamaica and is considered the Jamaican national dish. Ackee is a fruit that is commonly grown in Jamaica and is also the national fruit of Jamaica. As a result, it has a large significance in Jamaica and is a great representation of the culture of Jamaica. It is also very common for families to grow Ackee in their yards and when my father lived in Jamaica, he and his family grew up growing it and eating it for breakfast which has great significance for me.

There are so many reasons why I love this meal. It is a reminder of my heritage and my history and allows me to identify closely with my Jamaican background. It also gives me the feeling of closeness and connectedness to my dad who enjoyed this meal growing up in Jamaica. Whenever we visit my family in New York and Jamaica this dish is a focal point of our meals and is always enjoyed by everyone. When visiting my aunt’s house in New York, my sister and I always travel to the Jamaican grocery store with her to pick out the saltfish and buy the ackee. Once we get home my aunt begins cooking the ackee and saltfish and my dad begins rolling out the dough to cook the dumplings. The tradition is that my aunt will cook the ackee and saltfish first while my dad rolls out the dumplings. My dad will wait until the ackee and saltfish are done before frying the dumplings so they are hot and crispy when they go onto the plate. My favorite smell is when the dumplings begin frying because that means the food is almost done and ready to eat. This meal is also important to me because it’s a rare dish that we have whenever we’re with family on my dad’s side. Since most of the family on my dad’s side lives in New York or Jamaica we don’t get to visit them very often. As a result, it’s not often that we get to enjoy this meal so when we have it, it means that a special occasion is occurring where we can all be together. The memories attached to this meal of the family all together coupled with its amazing taste is what makes this dish so important to me.

Ackee and Saltfish with Fried Dumplings

My Dad’s side of the family from Jamaica

Along with my personal history and culture with this dish, there is an entire global history surrounding it. Since Ackee and Saltfish is Jamaica’s national dish, and Ackee is the national fruit, this meal is held in high regard in Jamaica and has been a part of the country’s history for hundreds of years. Ackee is originally native to tropical West Africa and was imported to Jamaica during the slave trade. Ackee also has a long-held reputation as a poisonous fruit which can cause fatalities if eaten before ripe. However, when ripe the fruit can be delicious and is prepared for many famous Caribbean cuisines. Saltfish is traditionally made from cod in a

process of drying the fish and then being salted to preserve it. This practice of drying fish to make saltfish was first established in Europe and made its way to the Caribbean during the slave trade in the 1700s which was the same time that ackee was imported to Jamaica. Since Jamaica has such a hot and humid climate, the ability to preserve fresh fish by drying and salting it resulted in it becoming a staple in Jamaica. The ackee and saltfish were then combined with other vegetables that were imported into Jamaica such as onions, tomatoes, and peppers and coupled with seasoning to create the dish that is historically significant to Jamaica.

Ingredients:

For the ackee and saltfish

  • 450g/1lb salt cod
  • 1 x 400g/14oz can ackee
  • olive oil
  • 1 onion, chopped
  • 1 tsp paprika
  • 2 tsp mild curry powder
  • 2 tsp jerk seasoning
  • 1 tsp hot pepper sauce
  • 1 red pepper, seeds removed and sliced
  • 1 yellow pepper, seeds removed and sliced
  • 200g/7oz tomatoes, chopped
  • salt and freshly ground black pepper

For the dumplings

  • 250g/9oz self-rising flour
  • 30g/1oz vegetable suet
  • pinch of salt
  • vegetable oil, for frying

Method:

1. For the saltfish, soak the salt cod overnight, changing the water a couple of times.

2. Drain, then put the cod in a large pan of freshwater and bring to the boil. Drain again, add fresh water and bring to the boil again.

3. Simmer for about five minutes, or until cooked through, then drain and flake the fish into large pieces. Discard any skin or bones.

4. For the dumplings, mix the flour and suet with a pinch of salt and 250ml/9fl oz water to make a dough.

5. Wrap the mixture in clingfilm and leave in the fridge to rest.

6. Open the can of ackee, drain and rinse, then set aside.

7. Heat a tablespoon of olive oil in a pan and fry the onion until softened but not brown.

8. Add the spices, seasoning, pepper sauce and sliced peppers and continue to fry until the peppers are tender.

9. Add the chopped tomatoes, then the salt cod and mix together. Lastly, stir in the ackee very gently and leave to simmer until ready to serve.

10. When you’re almost ready to eat, heat about 1cm/½in vegetable oil in a frying pan and heat until just smoking.

11. Shape the dumpling mix into plum-size balls and shallow-fry until golden brown. (CAUTION: hot oil can be dangerous. Do not leave the pan unattended.)

12. Drain the dumplings on kitchen paper and serve with the saltfish and ackee.

References:

  • “Ackee and Saltfish.” My Recipes, myrecipejm.com/recipes_list/ackee-and-saltfish-2/.
  • “Ackee and Saltfish.” Wikipedia, Wikimedia Foundation, 2 July 2019, en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ackee_and_saltfish.
  • Kilifin, Lyndsey. “A Brief History of Ackee and Saltfish, Jamaica’s Staple Breakfast.” Culture Trip, 19 Feb. 2017, theculturetrip.com/caribbean/jamaica/articles/a-brief-history-of-ackee-and-saltfish-jamaicas-staple-breakfast/.